Umbrella-shaded tables tier down decks and sprawl across the grass alongside the old Colorbond building. Dining is done with a Murray view, black swans, skimming pelicans, watercraft and Hindmarsh Island across the steely water. Everything is very coastal casual - except the food and the service. Here, Aquacaf leaps upmarket to gastronomic chic. Never was there a pasty like the Aquacaf fish pasty with its mulloway, cheese, leek and herb filling in light, flaky pastry.

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